| |
|
|
|
|
OUTDOOR GARMENTS - The summer dress on the left (c. 1863-1866) is made from a brown dotted cotton accented with a border print ruffle. A mauve silk spoon bonnet (with black silk lace bonnet veil) and silk Chantilly lace shawl give a finishing touch. The center ensemble (c. 1860-1865), appropriate for a formal visit, consists of a silk taffeta cloak with cutwork and fringe, over a plaid striped silk dress. A straw bonnet and decorative carrage parisol (2 hinges) protect her from the sun. The plaid silk walking dress on the right (1860-1865) has hooks and eyes on the seams to raise the skirt for country stroles. A black silk "pork-pie" hat, inexpensive brown silk parisol, and wool paisley shawl complete the outfit.
|
|
|
BALL GOWN c. 1860-1865 - A low neck and short puffed sleeves are the norm for a ball gown. Fancier fabrics, such as this green silk taffeta with warp printed border, are typical along with excess decoration. The colors of the dress are accented by the painted paper fan, the garnet necklace and the 1830's emerald and diamond bracelet. The hair ornament has been chrocheted from silk thread and beads, and attached to a cardboard head band. Directions for a similar head dress can be found in THE LADIES' HAND BOOK OF FANCY AND ORNAMENTAL WORK by Florence Hartley from the Civil War Era.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SUMMER DAY DRESS c. 1859-1861 - This dress, made from a silk organdy printed with paisley stripes, exhibits the many styalistic conventions and sewing techniques used at the time of the Civil War. The bodice closes center front with hooks and eyes (decorative buttons). The armholes (dropped very low over the shoulders), along with the straight waistline and high neckline, are piped with self fabric for strength and decoration. This dress exhibits the popular pagoda sleeve with cotton net undersleeves. the hair net, more favored by the younger generation, is constructed from criss-crossed silk ribbons with a wider rouched silk ribbon band. The hair jewelry accessories are made from human hair with gold fittings. Originally, hair was most often used for mourning jewelry in memory of a loved one, but by the time of the Civil War, It was very common and used as a token of love between friends.
|
|
|
WINTER DAY DRESS c. 1863-1865 - Although there is very little difference between a summer dress and a winter dress, winter dresses typically have sleeves which are gathered or shaped into the wrist and are made from denser materials. This simple plaid day dress has detail added with the cotton whitework collar, ribbon trimmed cuff and white cotton dotted swiss undersleeves. Plaid fabrics were made popular by Queen Victoria's love for Balmoral (her Scottish retreat). Her jewelry consists of a carved shell cameo pin set in gold and a late 1850's hair bracelet with gold locket clasp containing a woman's photograph. She is reading the December 1861 edition of the Journal of the American Temperance Union and New York Prohibitionist.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SUMMER DAY DRESS c. 1860-1865 - This lady is wearing a green wool and silk gauze (not lace) dress with a small floral motif. Although the combination of wool and silk in one fabric was quite common, few examples remain since wool tends to absorb moisture and swell much more radily than silk, causing the silk to tear. The cotton undersleeves are one of the most fashionable "Trompe l'oeil" accessories invoking the image of a beautiful blouse. They are, however, separate sleeves which can be interchanged between dresses. A reproduction collar protects the dress neckline from dirt and abrasion. It is extremely rare to see a period photograph of a woman without a collar..
|
|
|
VISITING DRESS c. 1860-1863 - Black is a color usually associated with mourning, but in this case the details indicate otherwise. This silk taffeta dress, with its six flounces woven with a border of velvet flowers, is too elaborate for the accepted mourning conventions . The sumptuous velvet accented strap and button decoration would be more fitting for an older woman, for which black was always an appropriate color. Her dress cap is constructed from dotted silk net decorated with lace, purple silk and velvet ribbons and jet beads. She holds an uncompleted pair of Berlin Work slippers.
DAY DRESS c. 1860-1865 - This simple cotton dress is printed with a paisley inspired design. She holds a woman's knitted wool vest that was made to be worn on the outside of a dress. This example is similar in design to directions given in an 1864 Peterson's Magazine.
|
|
|
